Handmade Derby Shoes

What is a Derby shoe and how it differs from an Oxford?

The Derby is certainly one of the most popular dress shoe styles for men. More often than not a Derby is easily mistaken with the Oxford. If you do not want to happen you can always look out for that subtle difference between the two shoes.
The difference being Derby’s open lace system sewn on top of the vamp with a three-part paneled construction (two quarters and a vamp) but for Oxford, it is sewn underneath and has a closed lace system.
The choice between an Oxford or a Derby is purely personal. However, to learn in-depth the difference of comfort between the two; one needs to understand that the Derby’s have a comparatively larger instep to an Oxford, hence making it easier for men with wider feet to slip in the foot. The Derby has become the most preferred choice for daily wear for this reason. The Oxford shoes are more common on formal or special occasions.
The various decorations and styles that are offered in a mens Derby shoes can change it looks from being casual to formal. A simple cap toe can enhance the look of your Derby’s to look elegant informal occasions. Broguing with a Medallion or a Wingtip makes the shoeless traditional and provides an inconspicuous racy appearance.

Types of Derby’s

The various types of Derby’s are similar to the Oxfords from a decoration perspective. Here is the list:

The Plain Derby:

As the name suggests, the vamp and the quarters of the shoe does not feature any embellishments like a cap toe or broguing. As such, this is considered to be the most formal in the lineage of the styles. In Black, it’s considered to be most formal of the lot. Lately, they have been seen in other sober colors like Brown and Burgundy as well. Derby’s in suede or combination of leather and suede come in the casual lot.

The Cap Toe Derby:

The cap toe handmade Derby shoes has a capped toe usually with a double or a triple stitch or with broguing at the edge of the cap. A medallion can be decorated on the toe for the character. On the formality gauge, this is considered less for than a plain toe Derby.

The Wingtip Derby/ Brogue:

A toe cap shaped like a ‘W’ or an ‘M’ or ‘U’ which extends along both sides of the shoe or stop just short of the counter or the heel cap and are called wingtips. Amongst the lot, this is the most information. However, when mixed and matched with different leather colors and materials like leather, suede, and canvas, one can get very creative and raise the bar of versatility.
To custom make a Derby shoe of your own choice of leather and suede choices and colors, please drop us an email on sales@kingstraders.com.
We have a host of Derby formal shoes online, Are you ready-to-wear our handmade shoes online collection.

The Derby Collection